Сентябрь 7, 2017
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I've been around a sickle mower for a lot of years. Growing up on an apple orchard, we would hook it up every fall and mow under the apple trees just prior to harvest, so the pickers weren't wading through tall grass. My earliest memories were that the stupid thing was always a struggle to get on the tractor.
If it's stored on the ground, you're worried about it tipping over and possibly decapitating you. We stored it in the back of a machine shed and I remember backing the tractor up and then having to scoot it across the concrete floor to get it lined up with the tractor. Then, once you got the lower three point arms hooked up you have a frame that had to be extended that mounted where the top link usually goes, then there were a couple of over-center devices that had to be locked in place and then the top link would go back in to connect the part that was hooked to the tractor to the back of the frame of the sickle mower. That's what you used to adjust the angle of the cut. Then you hooked up the PTO, which was fairly hard to reach with all the other mounting hardware in place.
Then it was time to grease it. A sickle mower has about 100 grease zerks, or at least it seems that way, and many of them are a little tough to get to, and if you want the thing to last you'd better keep it greased. Finally, we'd take a paint brush and some waste oil and thoroughly coat the cutterbar. The whole process could take a couple of hours and you'd be worn out by the time you were through.
That's why we so much preferred a brush hog. We had a pull type brush hog and you just backed up to it, dropped in a hitch pin, hooked up the PTO and you were cutting. So, it was the preferred machine for making tall grass (and brush) short.
There are certain areas, you just can't get with a brush hog, though. Pond banks, under trees, and the ditch by my driveway may be impossible to get to with a rotary cutter, and a sickle mower cuts it with no problem.
I let the ditch by my long driveway get away from me this year. The driveway's on one side, then a wooly ditch with brush 4' tall, and a nice mowed area the other side. I could have taken a weedeater and knocked it down, but that's more work than this old man wants to do, so I hooked the old farm sickle mower up to my small tractor and cut it that way.
The sickle mower was tough to hook to the 60 hp utility tractor on the farm, it was danged near impossible to hook to my TC40. There's just not enough room on a compact for all that goofy mechanism that hooks the mower to the tractor to fit, and the lift arms aren't really long enough. I had to move the lift links into a different position on the lower three point arms to even get the mower to function. Then, the PTO wouldn't go on because of some surface rust in the grooves. After about three hours and a little anger management, I finally had the mower on the tractor. I went down my ditch three passes and it looks AMAZING! It was almost worth the stress of hooking up.
I think I can modify the mower slightly and make it work better on the tractor. Those arms that contact the three point could be shortened about six inches and a couple of roll pins moved to a different location and I think attaching it to the tractor would be a breeze. I need to get an owner's manual and make sure I'm not missing something, and consult a former co-worker who is a sickle mower expert before doing anything. It looks to me like a pretty minor modification will make it work just fine.
The bottom line on sickle mowers, if you think you want one to do something similar to what I did in the video, beware. Good ones are getting fairly rare and are, in my opinion, overpriced. You'll have to do a fair amount of maintenance to keep them running, including hitting all of those grease fittings. I'd recommend building a cart with wheels to store it inside on a concrete floor. It's not a brush hog, if you try to cut trees with it you'll shorten the life of the sickle. Finally, it can be a real slow way to cut hay if that's what you're buying it for. In heavy conditions the hay will "slug up" on the cutter bar and you have to back up and clean it out before moving forward again. In really heavy conditions it can take all day to mow five acres and you may suffer a heart attack in the middle of it, it's that frustrating.
But, if you lack ream remote hydraulics on the back of your tractor and you want to cut hay, or if you have a pond bank or ditch you can't cut with anything else, a sickle mower is your answer.
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The sickle bar has a learning curve but now I think I have things figured out!
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Daily Beetle by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/)
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Every time I do a video about the difficulties in hooking up an implement I get several comments from folks that wonder why in the world I don't own a quick hitch. Good question...
When I was in the dealership world I had a bad experience with the first quick hitch I sold. We sold a new tractor, the hitch, and a whole bunch of implements of various brands to one customer. I had not been around quick hitches before and assumed they'd work on everything. They won't.
We ended up carting the customer's implements back to the dealership and adapting all of them to fit the quick hitch we'd sold him. He wasn't real happy because we were welding on the frames of all of his new attachments, it made us look bad, and from that point forward, I never sold another quick hitch.
Also, a lot of the time when I'm changing implements, I'm going from a brush hog to a post hole digger. Post augers are their own top link, so you have to remove the quick hitch to get one of them mounted. So, the quick hitch sorta didn't make sense, except I constantly find myself trying to maneuver around the woods in tight quarters with the brush hog on the back because I'm too lazy to take it off and put it back on.
What made me think I might want a quick hitch is the advice my mentor gave me. He's like a second father and he taught me nearly everything I know about the equipment business. He once told me, "You're crazy if you don't get a quick hitch." So, I finally broke down and ordered one.
If you're thinking about getting one, first make sure you know if your tractor is Category I or II. The one in the video is going on a Category I tractor. Here's my video that discusses the different categories of three point: https://youtu.be/jW9-C0mJ67g.
If you have a Category I tractor and decide you want to take a chance on a quick hitch, here's the link to exactly what is demonstrated in the video: http://amzn.to/2i9hVqj. If your tractor is Category II you can still click on the link to take you to Amazon, then do your search for "Category II Quick Hitch" and you'll find the same thing for your tractor. Either way, I'd recommend getting the NorTrac Quick Hitch Bushing Set as well, you'll need one pair for each implement to make everything connect snugly. Make sure you watch the video all the way through before ordering.
There may be better quick hitches out there, some are almost double the price of this one. I think the principles of how they work are the same, regardless of which one you get. Since I didn't know how well I'd like mine I got the cheapest one I could find on Amazon, which also was the one with the most ratings stars. I got it in about a week, and while it was Chinese built, it seems heavy enough.
I have three main thoughts about the quick hitch after my evaluation:
1) When quick hitches go right on implements they're AMAZING! The hitch slipped right on my brush hog with no modification. That was the first test and at that point I was thinking everyone in the world should own one of these.
2) They don't work on all implements. The implement has to be narrower from pin to pin (counting the little collar on the pin) than 27 3/16" or there'll need to be MAJOR modification to the implement to work. Also, the top link attachment point has to be out in the open and away from braces where the claw can get under it, and finally, the space where the top link goes in must be wider than 3". If you have any "off brand" implements, like I do, they may not work on a quick hitch without some serious blacksmith work.
3) If you're buying all new implements, consider buying all the same brand and getting their quick hitch. They may cost a little more up front, but if you change implements often it will be worth it.
While the quick hitch fit my cutter, it did not fit my el-cheapo rock rake or my homemade blade. I'm not willing to spend any time or money modifying those two implements to make them fit. Maybe someday when I'm retired and looking for things to do.
The bottom line for me is, I now have a way of taking my brush hog off and putting it on easily and that's worth what I paid for the quick hitch. I give it one marginal thumbs up.
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I had a question from a viewer about brush hogging in the winter, if it was a good idea. My opinion is, especially if it's your first time to cut a new area, it's an OUTSTANDING idea!
Anytime I'm on a new property and trying to clip pastures for the first time I worry constantly about my tractor and cutter. You just can't see rocks, stumps, balls of discarded fence wire, piles of net wrap and other obstructions when the weeds are tall. In the winter, when the leaves are off and the vegetation is sparse, you have a good chance of seeing that stuff and avoiding it. Most farmers at one time or another have brush hogged over a drag harrow or rock pile that they forgot was there in the tall weeds. Believe me, it'll wake you up and could cost you a bunch of money in repair bills! So, visibility is the first reason for winter mowing.
Another advantage of cutting this time of year is there's less material to discharge. With less vegetation going through the cutter, I find that off-season mowing allows me to drop the tractor RPM's down and still get a nice cut, which saves wear and tear on the equipment, reduces fuel consumption, and keeps you from losing your hearing.
So, there are lots of advantages to brush hogging in the winter. If you can catch a nice day, slicking up a pasture and getting some sunshine and fresh air will be good for your soul. But, there are a couple of dangers that you should know about.
First, you wouldn't think this is right, but it's real easy to heat up a tractor in the winter. When you're driving through those weeds with fully mature seed heads that shatter easily, you can quickly suck a bunch of debris in and clog up your radiator. You might not even think to look at the tractor temperature gauge when you're struggling to stay warm on the seat, but without air flow, it can heat up fast. So, watch that temperature and if it's getting hot, get the leaf blower or a radiator genie (available at https://asktractormike.com/products-for-sale/) and clean those fins out!
The second disadvantage to cutting in the winter is there could be a chance of starting a pasture fire. One little spark down in the dry material you've just cut with the turbulence from the cutter and you may have fanned up a little flame. Pasture fires can get real ugly real quick if it's windy, which in our area, it frequently is, in the winter.
So, carry the cell phone and have the rural fire department's number handy (Have you paid your dues? That's how a lot of them work). Also, if you have a Tractor Caddy, available at https://asktractormike.com/product/tractor-caddy/, you can carry a leaf blower with you on the tractor and blow out a fairly large fire with little effort. If you don't have access to a leaf blower, the next best thing is to get a five gallon bucket about half full of water, then drop a burlap bag in it. You could use an old winter coat or pair of blue jeans. I keep the bucket with water and bag handy anytime we have a campfire. You can beat the fire out with the wet bag effectively, just don't overdo it. That's very strenuous exercise and there have been people have heart attacks trying to keep a fire curtailed that way, and it's not worth it.
If you want to brush hog this time of year go for it! You'll make me feel better because I'm usually the only guy around here who likes to do it then.
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Today I continue my series of interviews with dealers from the 2017 Ozark Fall Farmfest by talking to Cody from Carl's Auto Repair Tractors and Equipment in Forysth, Missouri. Cody and his dad's dealership handle the TYM and Branson lines of tractors. TYM purchased the parent company of Branson tractors about a year ago, making them the second largest Korean tractor company, which is saying quite a bit, that country is a hotbed of production.
Cody and I discuss the two lines, what you need to know before and after buying a tractor, and the best time of year to buy. Cody is a big advocate of training, whether or not you've ever owned a tractor, and he goes over a new purchase from front to back with his customers.
Here's a link to Cody's website: http://www.carlsauto-forsyth.com/.
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If you didn't grow up on a farm, but you've watched neighbors cut, rake and bale their own hay, you might think you'd like to do that for yourself someday. There is something tremendously gratifying about looking back over a freshly mowed and baled field of hay, it beats sitting behind a computer screen all day in my humble opinion.
The problem is, just like anything else, it takes a lot of practice to be able to successfully make hay. It may look easy, but most of the guys doing it have been doing it their whole lives and know all of the practice and mechanical ability required of that lifestyle. Then you have the expense of it, unless you're rich, or going to cover a lot of acres, there's no way to justify investing all of that money into equipment. So, you may wind up with older used equipment, and I can tell you, I've seen people who thought they had great "deals" on older hay cutters, rakes or balers, who ended spending a ton of money trying to get it repaired and field ready. They might have been better off to buy new in the first place.
So, in this video, I'm riding around in a tractor cab with my old friend J.D., who's been baling hay since he was a kid, and he gives his opinion about how to get started if that's what you want to do. We discuss the high cost of equipment, the possibility of locating a "mentor" to help you learn, and the joy of the task when it all works.
Most guys who bale their own hay wouldn't trade that lifestyle for any other, but they're wiling to get greasy doing occasional repairs and understand that it costs a lot of money to maintain harvesting equipment. In the end, you may get a tremendous amount of pleasure out of making hay, but you need to be ready for the amount of work and money that is needed to support it behind the scenes.
Copyright 2018 Tractor Mike LLC
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I made this mechanical tow behind mower for my ATV basically from junk. Although I had to buy the rear axle, a few bearings and some V-belts, this project was made from scrap metal and other recycled materials. I hope you enjoy watching! #mowing #mower #ATV #grass #DonnDIY #eestiyoutuber
I got the idea from a YouTube user Roadracing Mustang. His video is located at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99fRn6rJQ1I. Check it out! It's brilliant!
Soundtrack:
Demilitarized Zone (Sting) — Ethan Meixsell (YouTube Audio Library)
Donations accepted at: https://youshouldbuildit.blogspot.com.ee/p/donations.html
Blueprints available at:
https://youshouldbuildit.blogspot.com.ee/p/blueprints.html
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If you're around a tractor dealership and you hear the term "fluiding" or talk about putting fluid in the tires, you may wonder what that means. Farmers have used various liquids over the years, pumped in the back tires of the tractor, to add weight, or ballast, to the back end. It's really important to do to get the maximum lift capacity out of the front end loader, also to add stability on slopes. In this video we'll show you what the process looks like.
If you've recently purchased a tractor and it didn't come from the dealer with fluid in the tires, and you're now realizing you need it, that's not a problem. That is, provided you're in an area where there's an agricultural tire dealer who does mobile service. Most of those guys are also set up to come out to your place, pump the fluid in the tires with them still mounted on the tractor, and actually charge you less than if the dealer you bought it from would have done it. That's because many dealers call the same guy to fluid the tires in tractors they sell before delivery, then mark up what you pay so they make a little extra money. So, you not only save a little money by having someone come out and do the process, but you're also establishing a relationship with someone who does mobile tire repair that you might need on down the line.
Adding fluid can put 400 lbs per tire or better to the back end of your tractor. Remember that if you have any thoughts of changing the width of the tires (as seen in this video: https://youtu.be/y2Ytz9-PGOA), make sure you do that before putting fluid in them. Finally, if you get a hole in the tire, park the tractor with it at the top and call your tire dealer to come fix it immediately, before the fluid runs out.
I wouldn't own a tractor without fluid in the tires, it drastically changes lift capacity and safety on hills.
I want to thank Wells Tire of Springfield, Missouri for allowing me to film the process.
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One of my favorite tractor attachments is a set of pallet forks…I use mine all the time. There's a ton of stuff you can do with pallet forks and they're readily available for most loader quick attach brackets. In this video we'll discuss what size to get, what options to look for (there aren't many) and how to maintain them so they work well.
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There are so many things you can mess up on a tractor if you haven't been around them much, you learn what not to do growing up on a farm, but teaching every possible scenario where you might cause damage or danger is a big job. Hence, I may never run out of ideas for videos.
The latest incident came a couple of Saturday's ago where I was helping a good friend of mine, Jim, and his son Tyler, dig some holes. Tyler has lived in other parts of the country and now he's moved back to the Ozarks and bought a place with a big lot. He's relocating a fence and needed my tractor with the post hole digger to set the posts. We were digging the first hole and Tyler pulled back on the 3 point position handle to lift the auger to let dirt out of the hole and BOOM! He had lifted the handle all the way back and the post hole digger raised to the highest possible point, the PTO shafts separated and there were loud noises. Half a PTO shaft ended up spinning out of control on the ground. I had failed to remember to tell Tyler not to lift the thing all the way up. You're not supposed to do that.
I can't even remember when I learned that, but somehow I knew, after a lifetime of being on tractors, to never lift the three point up as high as it goes when the PTO is engaged. If you do there's possibility of a lot of damage.
We were actually lucky the PTO shaft separated because if the shaft was still spinning at the awkward angle I think we would have torn up something much worse. As it was, one end of the shaft was all wollered out, the other half had a nice bow in it. We went to the local farm supply to get a replacement and the one that would have worked was $400 . Not good...
So, instead of replacing the whole shaft, I took it to a repair shop that specializes in drivelines. They do clutches, axles, transmissions and transaxles, I get the feeling they do an awful lot of work on off-road stuff like jeeps and these jacked up tricked-out four wheel drive trucks, but there were also several PTO shafts laying around. They charged $130 to repair my problem, which I thought was real reasonable.
Two lessons to be learned here. First, check out your three point PTO implements and see how high they can go without doing damage. You may want to set the "stop" on your three point position control when using them so you don't inadvertently
lift it too high and screw up the PTO. This is a problem with post hole diggers and it is with some brush hogs. If I raised my cutter all the way up, the deck would encounter the PTO shaft and bend it badly. Check it out without the PTO attached and look at the angles and you'll know approximately where the danger zone is.
Second, If you have a failure like this, find one of these driveline repair shops to fix it and you might save some money. There's no need to fork out the money for a brand new shaft.
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More than just a mower, the Krone EasyCut boasts an innovative design that features a proven headstock with optional hydraulic
control, the CV mower conditioner rotor with tines at steep angles, a compact design and easy handling for superior operator comfort and a perfect quality of work.
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